WEEKLY WALKER

By Tom Davids

Toyon Trail - Old Spanish Trail

and Coal Mine Ridge

Town of Portola Valley

"Nature is not so poor as to possess only one of anything. . ."

- John Muir

Directions: From Highway 280, take Alpine Road south. Continue past the junction with Portola Road about three-quarters of a mile to the intersection of Willowbrook Drive. Just before the intersection, you will find limited parking on the north side of Alpine Road. If this area is full, park on the west side of Willowbrook Drive.

Grade: Moderate. Elevation gain of 650 Feet.

Distance: Five miles.

Time: Two hours.

Special Conditions: The Portola Valley Town Trails are located on private property. Please stay on the trails and follow the posted rules. For information, call the Town of Portola Valley at 650-851-1700.

The trails on Coal Mine Ridge pass through 450 acres belonging to the homeowners of Portola Valley Ranch. The trails are open to the public and are available for hiking and/or equestrian use. Bicycles are not allowed. Dogs are permitted on some trails. Trail use limits are posted on each junction sign.

This hike starts at the trailhead opposite Willowbrook Drive. Turn to the right, and climb for .1 mile to Toyon Trail. The trail starts wide and hard-packed, but narrows as it moves upward through several switchbacks. The heavy tree cover of madrone and tanbark oak soon opens up, and limited views to the east are before you.

Soon you will reach the first junction--and there are many junctions along this ridge--with the option of continuing on the Old Spanish Trail or turning right for the Toyon Trail. Turn right, climb five timber steps, and continue on the Toyon Trail for .9 mile to the junction with Coal Mine Trail.

As you hike, you will catch nice views of Windy Hill to the west. The trail moves in and out of ravines for about one-quarter mile and passes over a short log plank bridge, through a field of ferns, and under madrone trees on its way to "Jane's Retreat."

This isn't a spa for the rich and famous. It's only a very special bench. Jane's special place is a large half log supported by stout wood blocks reached by eight steps up the hillside with excellent views across the Canyon to the west and north to Windy Hill. Step up to the bench to see "Jane's Retreat" carved in the slab with a bird alongside. I don't know the history of Jane or her bench; perhaps a reader will share her story.

The trail continues laterally along the hillside, and you will gradually gain elevation, with the rushing water sound of Corte Madera Creek drifting up from the canyon 100 feet or more below. Along the path are other wood slab benches, inviting you to sit and enjoy the view across the canyon to the Razorback Ridge Trail of Windy Hill.

Moving in and out of gullies flowing with water during the rainy season, you will cross over a long, wooden plank bridge with a thick rope handrail and soon arrive at the next junction.

A left turn leads to the Coal Mine Trail, but for this hike, continue straight ahead .6 mile to Lake Trail. At this junction, you are 420 feet above the trailhead on Alpine Road. The trail climbs to the ridgeline alongside a short piece of old barbed wire fence and past a couple of toyon shrubs a few feet off the trail on your left.

This time of the year (early January), the toyon shrub--also known as the Christmas berry shrub--holds large clusters of bright red berries. Early settlers (Indians and Spanish) usually did not eat the fresh berries because of their bitter taste. Instead, they hung the clusters over hot coals and cooked them well before consumption.

The trail travels along the ridgeline for a short distance (note the Coal Mine Trail down the ridge to your left), reaching an elevation of 620 feet above the trailhead and passing by a large eucalyptus tree as it drops a hundred feet to meet Lake Trail. At the junction you can exit the trail system by turning right and hiking .3 mile to Alpine Road, or turn left to join the Old Spanish Trail.

I suggest a left turn on Lake Trail, which climbs back to the ridgeline past another large eucalyptus tree and a seasonal pond that was full of water and alive with the sounds of frogs during our January visit. Just beyond the pond is another junction. Turn left on Old Spanish Trail and enjoy the views to the north and east. Several homes are visible on the distant hills.

Your 2.3-mile hike back to the Alpine Road trailhead includes some other hiking options. You can connect with the Coal Mine Trail, the Fire Road, the Arroyo Trail, and with the Bay Laurel Trail. The Coal Mine Trail will lead you back to Alpine Road. The others will extend your hike to the east. I suggest staying on the Old Spanish Trail. Along the way you will walk by a sag pond and the adjacent ruins of a wood water tank with the metal bands that held the tank together stacked on top of each other.

Ahead is a junction, where you can branch off to the Coal Mine Trail and the Arroyo Trail. Continue straight, and in a few steps you will see down the hill and to your right an ancient, wide-spreading coast live oak tree. It is a huge tree with a dense, round helmet of leaves supported by a twisted superstructure of gnarled limbs and branches. The trunk divides into crooked, wide-spreading limbs that touch and trail the ground. Scamper down the hillside to admire this classic specimen, and reflect on the words of Robert Louis Stevenson, who described the dense coast live oak forests around Monterey as "woods for murderers to crawl through." (For more information, read "Oaks of California," Cachuma Press, Inc., 1991.)

The trail joins a service road that leads to a large steel water tank, then spins off on a single track to the junction with Toyon Trail and the Alpine Road trailhead.

Take a few hours this winter or early spring to enjoy the trails of Coal Mine Ridge. The wildflowers will be spectacular during April and May.

Your comments and hiking suggestions are always welcome.

E-mail to: trekertom@aol.com.