"As we headed north, there were the thickest, tallest, and straightest trees we had ever seen." Frey Francisco Palou, 1769, with the Portola Expedition
Directions: From the intersection of Highway 92 and Skyline Boulevard (Highway 35), go south for approximately six miles. Watch for the sign on the east side of Skyline that reads "Kings Mountain Volunteer Fire Brigade and Community Center - Home of Kings Mountain Art Festival." The address is 13889 Skyline Boulevard. Park along the roadside, not in the Fire Department/Community Center, which is posted as private property.
Grade: Moderate. Elevation loss, then gain of 620 feet.
Distance: 1.2 miles round trip.
Time: One hour plus lunch time.
Special Conditions: The park is part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. For information, call 650-556-8642. Trails are open to hikers and equestrians. No dogs or bicycles are allowed.
The Phleger Estate is a wonderful wilderness area with fine hiking into deep redwood canyons along rushing seasonal streams. The park covers 1,257 acres of forestland bordering Huddart Park to the south and from Skyline Boulevard on the west to West Union Creek on the east. The Phleger Estate was added to the Golden Gate National Recreation Area in 1995. The GGNRA includes such notable parcels as Sweeney Ridge, the Presidio, Muir Woods, and Point Reyes National Seashore.
Your first challenge to hiking Phleger is to find the park. There is no entrance sign and parking lot, no kiosk or friendly ranger to take your fee. Most enter the park from Huddart County Park via Richards Road to Miramontes Trail and the West Union Creek area. But there is another point of entry along Skyline Boulevard just north of the road leading to the Kings Mountain Fire Brigade and Community Center. Don't look for a Phleger sign--there isn't any. And don't look along Skyline Boulevard for a trailhead sign marking the Lonely Trail--there isn't any. Just start walking downhill about 50 feet north of the fire department road. You will pass through a circle of redwoods that host a group of artists during the annual Kings Mountain Art Festival, held each Labor Day weekend. A ravine is on your left, and beyond the circle of trees you will spot a trail. Hike downhill a short distance to a trail junction. Turn left, and you will spot the unique trail sign marked for Lonely Trail. This artistic signpost, including a native American on horseback, which is used throughout Phelger Estate, took a direct hit from a falling branch and needs a little repair. At ground level is a park sign identifying this as the Phelger Estate, part of the GGNRA, with no bikes, camping, fires, or dogs allowed.
The single-track trail descends through a redwood, fir, and tanbark oak forest and turns back on a wide horseshoe turn. The drainage ravine flows on your left as the trail twists gradually down through madrone trees.
The trail levels out for a few feet, then heads down, crosses the gully, and continues along the opposite hillside. As the trail moves around the hill, it levels out again and drops into a wide ravine that is a major water carrier during heavy winter storms. As you walk across the ravine, you will see the first of two benches on your left. The area is filled with tall second-growth redwoods with signs that heavy logging impacted this area a hundred years ago. You have been hiking about 20 minutes and have descended 500 feet.
You can stop here or continue another 10 minutes, dropping another 120 feet to the second bench, our favorite, which has a carved reminder: "Rest and be filled with the grace of the forest." This area is a different scene. Your view plane is much more limited with madrone and fir trees added to the forest mix.
Enjoy your picnic at either of these benches. We have met very few hikers in this part of the park, and chances are that you will enjoy a time of quiet solitude along Lonely Trail.
Your comments and hiking suggestions are always welcome.
E-mail to: trekertom@aol.com.