“The Wallace Stegner Bench”
Long
Ridge Open Space Preserve
Directions: The trailhead is located
1.6 miles south of Page Mill Road on the west side of Skyline Boulevard. Across
Skyline is parking for the Grizzly Flat Trail in Upper Stevens Creek Park.
Grade: Moderate; elevation gain of
540 feet.
Distance: 4.6 miles.
Time:
Two to three hours.
Special
Conditions:
No dogs allowed on this trail.
Heavy biking activity on weekends.
No water or restrooms.
Preserve operated by Midpeninsula Open Space District (650 691-1200).
This lunch stop is a stone bench built in the memory of Wallace Stegner, the
award-winning novelist and environmentalist. Stegner spent many years at
Stanford University, where he established and directed a writing program that
gave energy and direction to contemporary American fiction. Stegner and his
wife Mary joined with a group who preserved and then sold the Long Ridge Ranch
to the MROSP. Stegner died in 1993, but his novels and writings live on--as
does the stone bench dedicated to his memory in 1996.
A quote of Stegner's is preserved on a bronze plaque on the bench: "To
try to save for everyone, for the hostile and independent as well as the
committed, some of the health that flows down across the green ridges from the
skyline, and some of the beauty and spirit that are still available to any
resident of the valley who has a moment and the wit to lift up his eyes unto
the hills."
The bench is a great view spot. To the far west is the Pacific Ocean, often
observed by a low ridge of fog hugging the coastline. Closer in is the Peters
Creek drainage basin leading to Pescadero Creek. If you have a compass and look
due west, you are viewing Portola State Park, Pescadero Creek County Park, Sam
McDonald County Park, Memorial County Park, and the upper reaches of Butano
Park. This is a corridor of open space with interconnected trails extending as
far as the eye can see. A worthy site for your special lunch out.
The outing starts at the Peters Creek trailhead on Skyline Boulevard. The
trail heads gradually downhill, over a grassy slope, and through an oak forest
to the first junction with the Bay Area Ridge Trail. If you turn right, you
will end up at Skyline Ridge Open Space Preserve in two miles.
But for this hike, continue straight on to the canyon floor, and cross
Peters Creek on a stout wooden bridge. Peters Creek runs through Long Ridge
from its headwaters near the Jikoji Retreat. The creek continues its descent
into Devils Canyon and eventually enters Portola Redwoods State Park.
Turn right at the next junction and onto the Long Ridge Trail, where a steep
climb will bring you to the first switchback. Double back through the oak
forest to the next turn, where the trail levels out. Soon, cross a private road
and hike above Portola Heights Road. Stay on the trail until you come to a
"wide spot in the road" near gate LR-12. Continue up on the Long
Ridge Trail: don't swing down, or you'll find yourself back at Peters Creek. In
about a mile you will pass through a gate that is closed to horses and
bicyclists during the wet season. Pass through the gate and onto the ridge, and
the Stegner bench is before you.
The return hike follows Long Ridge Road south a short distance to the
junction with Ward Road. Notice the familiar green and white road signs at this
"intersection," as though auto drivers may be looking for direction.
I don't know why the signs are there, but perhaps it has to do with their
intersecting trails being designated as "roads."
From this junction, turn down and descend through five switchbacks under the
shade of oak, bay, and fir trees. The trail passes over an earthen dam that
holds a small lake on the Jikoji Retreat property. The are is fenced and posted
and is off limits to hikers. Continue along the creek beside a series of
meadows that once housed a farm and orchard. We found ripe walnuts on a
solitary tree; during the season, you may also find apples. The trail closes in
on Peters Creek, where the tree canopy is heavy and scattered logs and
moss-covered rocks make this a picturesque area during the rainy season.
Ahead is the junction with Long Ridge Trail. Turn right, cross the same
bridge, and retrace your steps up a couple hundred feet to Skyline Boulevard
and the parking area.
This is a beautiful hike any time of the year, but especially after the
first rain of the season. When the vegetation is washed, the trails are damp
and the views are unusually clear.
Last Hiked September 2001
Written by Tom Davids