WEEKLY

WALKER

By Tom Davids

"A Ridge-Line Walk with Great Views"

Sweeney Ridge

Golden Gate National Recreational Area

Directions: Sweeney Ridge is located between the cities of San Bruno and Pacifica. There are four trail heads--two from Pacifica (the Baquiano Trail at the end of Fassler Avenue and Mori Ridge Trail from the end of the dirt road, past Shell Dance Nursery.) The third trail head is from Skyline College at the southeast corner of parking lot number 2. The fourth trail head is from the end of Sneath Lane, San Bruno. This walk begins at the end of Sneath Lane.

Grade: Moderate.

Distance: 6.2 miles.

Time: Three hours.

Special Conditions: Plan this hike during sunny, clear conditions. The wind can be strong on the ridge, so dress appropriately.

Recommended Map: The best map for this area is "The Trail Map of Pacifica," created by Ben Pease. Available at REI or your local bookstore, or call (650) 221-0487. The map also includes trails for Milagra Ridge, San Pedro Valley County Park, McNee Ranch State Park, and Montara Mountain, and a written description of the area.

"That man is by no means poor who has the use of everything he wants. If it is well with your belly, your back, and your feet, regal wealth can add nothing greater." Horace

A few years ago we took this hike as part of a long walk from the southern entry to the Sawyer Camp Trail. The sky was overcast with periodic light rain, and by the time we arrived at the end of Sneath Lane, the fog was beginning to form. We continued on until we reached the ridge, peered through the fog, saw nothing, and turned back.

Last month we tried again. We drove to the end of Sneath Lane on a crystal clear day. The wind was calm, the spring flowers were in bloom, and the melody of "On a Clear Day, You Can See Forever" seemed to say it all.

Sneath Lane intersects with Skyline Boulevard (Highway 35) in San Bruno. Go west on Sneath Lane for about two miles. Pass by the San Francisco County Jail, and continue to the road's end, where there is parking for a dozen or so cars. At the gate, a GGNRA sign welcomes you to Sweeney Ridge, and an asphalt road leads to the ridge a distant 1.3 miles to the west. From the start, you will enjoy great views. San Andreas Lake is in the distance before you as you start the hike, and you will see it from various viewpoints en route. Other significant landmarks include the San Francisco International Airport and the East Bay hills from Oakland to Mount Hamilton. As the trail (road) moves in and out of ravines, several water courses appear that eventually drain into San Andreas Lake. Near the midway point an old yellow "Fog Line" appears and continues to the ridge top. I presume that the fog line was an important visual marker for military personnel servicing the Nike missile site on the ridge during the 1950s and '60s. Now the line serves to guide bicyclists and hikers when heavy fog covers the ridge. The hike to the ridge is surprisingly clear of trees except for a small forest of eucalyptus and scattered fir and cypress trees near the ridgeline.

When you reach the ridge, turn left, and in a short distance you will find two granite monuments. One honors the Portola Expedition: "From this ridge, the Portola Expedition discovered San Francisco Bay. Nov. 4, 1769." History tells us that Gasparde Portola's party camped at Linda Mar Beach (San Pablo Creek) early in November 1769. A scouting party to Sweeney Ridge reported sighting an "enormous arm of the sea." On Nov. 4, Portola climbed to the ridge and viewed for the first time San Francisco Bay. This is now called the San Francisco Bay Discovery Site.

A second monument nearby honors the memory of Carl Patrick McCarthy, who between 1966 and his death on Oct. 15, 1981, personally brought 11,863 visitors to this viewpoint. On top of this monument is a granite wheel with an arrow pointing north. Around the sides are images of prominent topographical features including the Farallon Islands, Point Reyes, Mount Tamalpais, Mount Diablo, Mount Hamilton, and others. All of these distant sites are visible on a clear day.

Our hike continues along the ridge south for 1.3 miles to the gate, which restricts passage into the San Francisco Watershed. Efforts are now underway to complete the Ridge Trail through this area to Highway 92. Double back less than a quarter-mile, and turn left on a narrow trail leading down to a swale and a freshwater marsh. Continue along the east side of the marsh and gradually regain altitude to the ridge. Continue north, and soon you will pass by the Discovery Site with the city of San Francisco, with Sutro Tower and the Golden Gate Bridge in your distant view.

Go north for one-half mile to the old Nike missile facility. This facility actually controlled a Nike launch site on Malagra Ridge by radar. You can roam through the buildings and get some idea of how the Bay Area was "protected" during the Cold War. On the ridge, enjoy the views, the wind, and maybe even the fog. And this time of year, the wildflowers are a special treat.

To return, turn around to the intersection with the Sneath Lane Trail, and retrace your steps.