Fire Trail Loop

Butano State Park

“It was in the ‘cool of the day’ that the Almighty is pictured as walking in the garden, but I have most often met him on the road by night." - John Finley

Directions: South on Highway 1 to Pescadero Road. Turn left and drive to Cloverdale Road (2.5 miles). Turn right and continue 4.2 miles to park entrance. The entrance kiosk is less than half a mile. From the Peninsula, you can also take Highway 84 (La Honda Road), cross Skyline and watch for signed cutoff to Pescadero. Turn left on Cloverdale Road a couple miles east of Pescadero.

Grade: Strenuous. Cumulative elevation gain 1,750 feet.

Distance: 13.5 miles. Add one additional mile for the Ray Linder Memorial Trail.

Time: Seven hours.

Special Conditions: There is a day-use fee of $4 per car ($3 seniors). Park near entrance kiosk or at the picnic area. No restrooms or water on trail. Dogs allowed on fire roads but not on single-track park trails. This is a California State Park. For information, call 650-879-2040.

Butano (pronounced “Boo-tano”) was added to the California State Park System in 1961. Before that, the area was home to loggers, farmers, and ranchers, and before that, to Native Americans, who drifted down the West Coast from the Bering Strait. The Ohlone was the common tribe of Indians in these parts, and it is interesting to note that they shied away from the deep redwood canyons that we admire and enjoy today. Their preference was for open spaces, where they could find edible plants and game (deer) rather than the dark forest where food was scarce and where grizzly bears and predators hid.

This hike follows the ridgeline surrounding Butano Canyon on established, wide fire roads. You might not consider “fire roads” to be choice hiking trails, but it depends. If, for instance, you are hiking with a group, wide roads promote conversation. And if you are walking the family dog, these are the only trails in the park available to you. And if you want the best views, there are none better than from the ridgeline. Furthermore, if you have hiked the trails through Butano Canyon and the ridge trails are all that remain, then why not.

A few words of caution before you start out. This trail is steep and sun-exposed in many parts. There is no water, so carry plenty. There are no restrooms. If you take your dog, remember that this is a 13-mile hike with a lot of sun and no water. Be kind to “good dog Mack,” and make sure he can handle the heat and distance. Be sure to take extra water. Dogs are not allowed on park trails, so you won’t be able to shortcut back. These are multi-use trails, so watch for bikes.

We started our hike at the head of the Ano Nuevo Trail, next to the park entrance kiosk. This narrow path quickly crosses Little Butano Creek and then switchbacks through dense vegetation to the ridge above. This time of year, the trailside is in bloom with forget-me-nots; as you gain altitude, you will see clumps of mountain iris. Leaves of this plant were used by the Indians to make twine or rope to form fishing nets and game snares. The mountain iris blooms from April to June. Be careful to stay away from stinging nettle and poison oak as you climb this trail.

About 20 minutes into this hike and with an elevation gain of nearly 400 feet, you will see on your right a short side trail that leads to a bench. The view is now obstructed, but when the trail was built, hikers had a clear view to Ano Nuevo Island from here.

The narrow trail continues to switchback with footing over wood steps and tree roots. Another 20 minutes and 400 feet of elevation gain brings you to a second bench on the right with more obstructed views to the west and south.

Ten minutes more, and you will reach the junction with Olmo Fire Road. To your left, the road goes down to the main park road. If you are walking the dog, you park at the base of Olmo Fire Road since dogs are not allowed on the narrow Ano Nuevo Trail.

Our hike turns right and follows Olmo Fire Road for the next three miles. Most of the trees along this ridge are Douglas fir with some second-growth redwoods ahead. A parallel trail (Gazos Trail) runs for a quarter-mile below the fire road. An unsigned entrance is on your right just beyond Goat Hill Trail. Your views into Gazos Creek Canyon are best along this trail.

The Gazos Trail rejoins Olmo Fire Road, and soon you will see a huge root ball of a Douglas fir on your left that fell long ago. Notice that the road alongside the root ball looks perfectly level, which seems to say that the road was built after the tree fell.

The fire road continues up and down until it intersects with the Doe Ridge Trail. Along the way, you will see a sign identifying property as “The Ainsley Family Tree Farm.” Checking your map of the park, you will see that this loop trail passes in and out of public and private property.

For the next 20 minutes, you will hike on the sun-soaked road and gain 300 feet. Stay on the fire road, and pass by the cool and welcome Indian Trail on your left. After a hot, uphill trek, the fire road finally enters the cover of trees. In another 15 minutes, you are at the junction with Butano Fire Road.

If you have extra time, take an hour and hike the beautiful Ray Linder Memorial Trail. This trail is located off Butano Fire Road, a few feet to your right from the junction. It is a short loop, single-track trail that drops off the ridge to the north and passes through a beautiful area of old and tall fir and redwood trees.

From the junction, turn left on Butano Ridge Trail and start your seven-mile trek back to the trailhead. Most of this stretch is sun-drenched, but the views are dramatic. As you walk, you will pass through an abandoned airstrip that looks to be in pretty good condition. My reference books don’t give any information as to why the airstrip was built and how it was used. Perhaps a reader can help us with this mystery.

Continue along Butano Fire Trail, and pass by the Jackson Flats Trail junction. Soon you will have cool, shady tree cover.

Watch for an old shack nestled in a group of tall redwoods. This was probably part of the area’s logging past. About a half-hour later, you will see the Mill Ox Trail junction on your left. If you don’t have a dog or a bike, we recommend this trail for your quickest return to the trailhead. This is the last interesting trail back to the headquarters area. From this point, it is 2.5 miles to hike out to Cloverdale Road and then along the road to the park entrance.

And a final note—watch out for ticks. The score for this hike was Tom 1, Veralyn 0, and one loose on the bathroom floor. Shower and change clothes as soon as you can.

Your comments and hiking suggestions are always welcome.

E-mail < tom@tomdavids.com>

Footnote: Check out the Weekly Walker Web at www.weeklywalker.com.