The Other Side of Ano Nuevo

Ano Nuevo State Reserve

(In Search of Sawmills on the Peninsula: Waddell’s Wharf, 1864-1875)

“New myths are born beneath each of our steps.” - Louis Aragon

Directions: Highway 92 to Half Moon Bay. South on Highway 1 for about 30 miles to the park entrance on your right. Continue one-half mile to the south entrance.

Grade: Easy.

Distance: Two miles.

Time: One to two hours.

Special Conditions: Day use fees apply at the main entrance. No dogs or bicycles on the trails. No problem with poison oak if you stay on the trail. Some areas closed to protect the wildlife. For more information, call the park office at (650) 879-0227 for tour and fee information or access the website at www.anonuevo.org.

Last week we hiked to Waddell’s Mill in Big Basin State Park. I mentioned that Waddell’s cut timber had to be hauled on mule-drawn carts over wooden rails through the canyon to the coast for shipping. Waddell’s plans for a wharf at the mouth of Waddell Creek were foiled by bedrock that made it impossible to drive piles for the wharf. His solution was to extend the rail line north to a wide cove on Point Ano Nuevo, from which he built a long pier to deep water.

This week’s hike takes us to that cove from the south--or informal—entrance to Ano Nuevo State Reserve. The trailhead is located one-half mile south of the reserve entrance road. Watch on the west side of Highway 1 for a brown painted gate that stops vehicle traffic. Just beyond is an off-road dirt parking area for a dozen or more cars. Pass around the gate and walk on the old asphalt road, which is the old Highway 1. Take care to stay away from the poison oak that lines both sides of the road. In a block or so the path turns north, and you can see the large cove and expanse of Point Ano Nuevo ahead. The path crosses an old concrete bridge that spans Ano Nuevo Creek deep below. The width of this bridge indicates that it is for one-way traffic only or that vehicles using it were very, very narrow.

Cross over the bridge to a trail junction. Straight ahead and up will bring you to the Visitors Center, but turn left down to the wide beach. Along the water’s edge, you will sense that this sheltered area behind the bluff was probably the ideal place for Waddell to build his wharf. Old photos show the wharf placed around the area where a clump of trees lines the bluff. From there, the wharf extended 700 feet over the beach to deep water. At the end was a swinging chute that lowered lumber to a schooner below. The wharf was completed in 1864, and according to Stanger, was handling two million feet of lumber a year by 1867. Other mills along the coast also shipped from the wharf.

This is the last we hear about William Waddell. In 1875 he was mauled by a grizzly bear while hunting deer with his friend John Bradley and died of complications soon after.

However, the hike goes on. Walk toward the beach toward the trees on the bluff, and you will notice a steep path leading along the beach. At the top you will join a trail. Turn left and walk along the windswept bluff to a park kiosk (staging area) with instructions regarding current regulations and procedures about animal habitat areas closed to hiking. From this point you have several options for hiking back to the Visitors Center/main parking lot area. We walked along the Pond Loop Trail past the pond and back to the old, narrow bridge over Ano Nuevo Creek. Whichever trail you choose, remember that you must hike toward the Visitors Center and then turn south to return to your “informal” trailhead.

We will soon be at that time of year when walks at Ano Nuevo State Reserve are limited due to sea lion breeding and birthing. Hiking in the area is tightly controlled and docent-monitored from Dec. 15 to March 31. Off-season hiking is generally clear except for specific closures as noted.

(References to sawmills and logging are from the book, “Sawmills in the Redwoods” by Frank M. Stanger, published by the San Mateo County Historical Association in 1967.)

Your comments and hiking suggestions are always welcome. Email tom@tomdavids.com or check www.weeklywalker.com on the web.

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