The Elephant Seal Walk

Ano Nuevo State Reserve

"Elephant seals are unpredictable--and faster than you might think to look at them. Even on land, they are extremely mobile for short distances. The head can be extended 2 or 3 feet for a quick bite. Large canine teeth can inflict severe wounds. Battles for dominance between bulls are among the bloodiest of any species, and they can crush a person with their 2- to 3-ton weight."                 (from the Ano Nuevo State Reserve brochure)

 

Directions: Highway 92 to Half Moon Bay. South on Highway 1 for about 30 miles to the park entrance on your right. Or 19 miles north of Santa Cruz on Highway 1.

Grade: Easy.

Distance: Three miles.

Time: 2.5 hours on guided walk.

Special Conditions: To visit Ano Nuevo from Dec. 15 to March 31 (the elephant seal breeding season), you must be on a guided walk led by a trained volunteer naturalist.

            It's that time again. Five thousand pounds and ready for battle. They grunt, they slash, they bully, and the winner takes all. When you visit this breeding ground, you will see hundreds of Northern Elephant Seals lounging in the warm sand. Many of the females will have small pups dressed in their newborn coats of black fur lying next to them. The "also-ran" males are somewhat distant from the harem on their own, looking the part of rejected suitors. Some have been barred from the female group by larger males, and some are still too young to compete. We saw, in the shallow water, two large males engaged in a violent battle to establish dominance. After a time of sparring, they fell to the surf and crawled to different parts of the shore. Over on the far side of the harem, dozens of gulls flocked around a newborn pup as they fed on the afterbirth. Closer by, a female was contracting violently, a probable sign of an impending birth. In the distance, framed against the late afternoon sun was the outline of buildings on Ano Nuevo Island once used by the Coast Guard to man a five-story light tower. An automated buoy replaced the station in 1948, and now the buildings are a playground for sea lions, seals, and birds.

            For good reason, much of the reserve is off-limits this time of the year. You can see the elephant seals only on one of the regularly scheduled guided walks. The walk takes about two and a half hours and covers about three miles. (See Special Conditions above for information and telephone numbers.) The 2 1/2-ton, 16-foot bull with sharp teeth keeping a keen eye on his harem is one very good reason for restricted use. Our naturalist guide took us within 40 feet or so of several of the slumbering bulls and pointed out their massive pendulous snouts; the thick, scarred skin on their chests, the flippers that propel them forward on land and down to the depths of the ocean; and the tags placed and carefully monitored by naturalists who monitor their return to the marine preserve over the years. It's also "hands off" for the mothers and pups, the former nursing and transferring strength to their offspring. By mid-March, this cycle is over, with most of the adults gone and the pups learning to fend for themselves before taking to the sea for the journey north to feeding grounds off the coast of northern Washington and Vancouver Island.

            After the initial visit to Ano Nuevo, your next visit may be during the off-season. You will want to study the tide pools near the tip of the peninsula that have an abundance of sea life--urchins, starfish, anemones, tube worms, and other creatures that live in tidal waters. Watch for harbor seals lounging on the rocks offshore, look for rare and endangered San Francisco garter snakes, and view the brown pelicans moving north from Mexico, and the many varieties of shorebirds.

            From the parking area, follow the trail west through coastal shrubs and abundant wildflowers in the springtime. Continue on the trail and then over the dunes to point Ano Nuevo. A thousand feet or so from the point is the Ano Nuevo Island, the one-time Coast Guard station, now a breeding area for seals, sea lions, and elephant seals, and a nesting place for sea birds.

            Before your walk, or certainly after, stop by the old barn and visit the visitors' center and the well-equipped bookstore. Take 10 minutes to view the slide presentation. A ranger and naturalist volunteers are available to answer your questions. This wild life spectacle changes with fascinating predictability each season of the year. Plan to visit often.

            Note: An ideal, trouble-free way to see the elephant seals is to take SamTrans, which, in partnership with the Ano Nuevo State Reserve, offers a special package. The $12 fee includes round-trip bus  transportation and a guided walk. The total trip takes about six and one-half hours. Weekend trips leave the Hillsdale Shopping Center on weekends until Feb. 27 at 9 a.m. and 10 a.m. Holiday Monday trips will be offered on Jan. 17 and Feb. 21 at 10 a.m. only. Visitors planning to arrive in personal vehicles cannot use these tickets. Call (650) 508-6441 for tickets and information.

Written by Tom Davids
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