Hiking the Grand Canyon

Grand Canyon National Park, Arizona

"There are no new accidents—only new people having the same old accidents."

- Unknown

Last August our extended family of 17 met in Flagstaff, Ariz., for a reunion. Why Flagstaff, you ask. Well, it’s somewhat in the center of where our family lives—the Bay Area, San Diego, and Boulder, Colo. But more than that, the Flagstaff area offers a wide range of activities: hiking on Mount Humphrey, the highest peak in Arizona; exploring Indian ruins in Walnut Canyon; shopping and scenery in Sedona; touring the historic mining town of Jerome; and tops on my list--another visit to the Grand Canyon.

Over our nearly half-century of married life, we have hiked in the canyon several times, including two treks from the South Rim to the Colorado River and Phantom Ranch. But our best memory was a 13.2-mile hike down the South Kaibab Trail, across the plateau on the Tonto Trail, and back up the Bright Angel Trail. The first 4.4 miles down the South Kaibab Trail deliver spectacular scenery since the hike follows a promontory with wide views up and down the canyon. We started our hike at sunrise and caught the first rays of light on the opposite canyon walls. In less than an hour (1.5 mile), you are at Cedar Ridge, known for its display of fossil ferns. If you are unsure of your hiking ability and stamina, this is a good turnback point.

Down to the west, you can view the Tonto Trail as it winds along the plateau. In another hour you will reach the junction of Tonto Trail. Turn left and continue 4.3 miles to the Bright Angel Trail. Be sure to carry a good supply of water, as the stretch is dry and exposed to full sun. We did find a trickle of water in Pipe Creek in the shade of a few cottonwood trees, and the guidebooks say that this trickle is predictable—but not guaranteed.

As you hike along the plateau, take time to enjoy the view. The rocky cliffs above tell a story of the last 500 million years. Geologic formations across the canyon—known as the Grand Canyon Supergroup—are from 800 million to 2 billion years ago. But don’t get carried away with a few hundred million years this way or that; rather, concentrate on the sheer beauty of the place. As the sun moves from east to west, the colors are ever-changing, as are the geologic formations against the desert sky. From 30,000 feet above, you can see how the long arms of erosions work their way down to the riverbed, and on the ground, you can visualize inland seas and rivers grinding through the soft shale and sandstone. Take all the pictures you want, but when your time in the canyon is over, the beauty of this place is best recalled from your mind’s eye.

The Tonto Trail joins with the Bright Angel Trail and it is soon time to start the climb to the South Rim. We stopped at Indian Gardens for a shady rest and water. This is a favorite campground for overnight visitors. A series of springs feed this oasis that was farmed by settlers and the Havasupai Indians before miners and tourists came along.

The climb to the top is four and a half miles and will take from four to six hours, depending on your condition and the heat, which is typically over 100 degrees during summer months. It is important to take your time and stop for water at the 1.5-mile and 3-mile rest houses along the way.

During our recent family trip to the canyon, we took a short hike down the Bright Angel Trail a mile or so—just enough to give everyone a “taste” of what it is like below the rim. Our time was limited because we took the Grand Canyon Railroad from the town of Williams to the South Rim—and when the train leaves, you had best be on it. But some interest has been kindled in the minds of our 14-year-old grandsons to plan a rim-to-rim hike—from the North Rim to the South Rim—23.4 miles in one day. Best we do it soon before the old bones go south.

As a side note, I found a fascinating book at the South Rim entitled “Over the Edge: Death in Grand Canyon” by Michael Ghiglieri and Thomas Myers, published by Puma Press, 2001. The authors’ chronicle some 600 persons “who fell victim to the ‘larger than life’ dangers below the rims.” Their accounts are especially meaningful if you have hiked the canyon and have a feeling for the dangers involved. The authors vividly describe accidental falls from the rims and within the canyon; victims of flashfloods and those who tried and failed to cross the Colorado; freak accidents and errors; suicides; murders; and airplane accidents above the canyon. Some examples follow.

Kendrik lost her footing while seeking a vantage point for photo, fell 600 feet. (pg. 53)

Mays walked solo off the trail onto a narrow ledge to take a photo at sunset. He lost his footing while preparing to take the photo, and fell 300 feet. (pg. 59)

Attempting overnight rim-to-rim hike in 105-degree heat, Fairchild collapsed of heat stroke four miles into ascent. (pg. 95)

Griffiths ignored the nearby sign warning against entering the river and tried to swim across the Colorado to the north side, but drowned. (pg. 222)

Schrieber wrote a note to his parents, then jumped off 400 feet. (pg. 311)

The book contains hundreds of stories of persons who visited the canyon and became its victim. It also includes the 1956 account of two airliners and a mid-air collision over the canyon that took 128 lives. The book is great drama and history for those looking for a total canyon experience.

Your comments and hiking suggestions are always welcome. Email <tom@tomdavids.com>

Footnote: Check out the Weekly Walker Web site at www.weeklywalker.com